Fancy some pickled Baltic herring? How about some Pied de Porc Farci Grillé or grilled pig’s trotters? No?
Relax… while you don’t have to sample these delights, there are lots of lessons to be learned from two of Europe’s most successful restaurants.
This is how the story begins…
In 1880 Leonard Lipp packed his bags and moved from Alsace to Paris. Having had the good fortune to be born French, he understood what made good food and interestingly enough… was an expert with Sauerkraut and Beer.
Strange combination, I know… however, being an entrepreneurial fellow, Leonard thought he could make a living combining these talents. And the Brasserie Lipp was born.
Starting from very humble beginnings, Leonard created a template for French Brasseries which are copied across the globe.
However, it was not till the 1920’s that the restaurant came into its own. Well known for its consistency in quality and style, it formed a hub for three distinct niches who graced the tables on a daily basis.
There was the “lunch” crowd… Locals working in the area who wanted a good lunch in a quiet setting.
The “pre-dinner” crowd – mainly bohemian types… authors, publishers, booksellers, magistrates, doctors,
lawyers and artists. You can imagine the conversations and the noise!
And finally the “Tout Paris” crowd that turned up for dinner. On a repeat basis.
The Brasserie Lipp is still going strong in Paris 130 years later. A testament to its consistency, quality and style. Not sure about you, but I don’t know too many other restaurants that have been going this long!
So what are the lessons?
I’ll get to that in a sec. But first… let’s move to Zurich 20 years ago.
Two brothers living in Zurich decided to open a restaurant. Nothing particularly unusual – lots of people go down this track – and many fail!
However, the Jaeger brothers did something different. They decided to model Brasserie Lipp and create a “Piece of Paris” in the heart of Zurich.
Now if you’ve ever been to Switzerland, you’ll know that eating out IS NOT CHEAP. There are no “holes in the wall” type places like there are here.
And the Brasserie Lipp in Zurich is no exception.
Known for the quality of food, wine and service, the brothers Jaeger built up the restaurant and had a regular clientele. Around 2000, the restaurant was sold to Martin Candrian, one of Switzerland’s leading restaurateurs.
During celebrations marking 20 years of Brasserie Lipp, Martin Candrian made some interesting points regarding success.
“Success is based on an age old recipe. 20% is about ingenuity, genius, brilliance etc. However 80% comes from tenacity, persistence, consistency and hard work.”
There are errr… no free lunches!
Candrian went on to say that consistent quality, in all areas of the business – the food, the service and the ambience was critical to their success. He knows what works and doesn’t go chasing new fads.
One of his main goals was to ensure their clients’ expectations were always fulfilled. And unlike many organisations which get rid of old staff, Martin understood loyalty begets loyalty. It was after all the staff that made the restaurant what it was (and is to this day). In a country where “waiting” is a profession (yes, you go to hospitality school for 3-4 years), many of their staff have been there since the inception 20 years ago! Not something you’ll see here!
Which brings me back to the lessons…
Take a stand and be known for something!
This is directly from the Paris Brasserie’s webpage – mind you, while they may well be famous, it’s not a menu I crave, but they’re obviously doing something right being around for 130 years.
“The Brasserie Lipp is not a restaurant: it insists - correctly - on being called a brasserie, a place to drink beer, or wine, or coffee, and to eat the renowned Alsatian cuisine, almost austere in its simplicity but copious in its portions. It is a place to converse, to read and even to write.
The menu has evolved slowly and meticulously with the years, with specialities like Hareng Bismark (pickled Baltic herring) introduced in 1928. Other notables include the Choucroute Lipp (sauerkraut with sausages, pork and ham), Pied de Porc Farci Grillé (grilled pigs trotters), and for desert an exquisite Millefeuille.
All these can be downed with beer or the house Riesling, served from elegant carafes. Alternatively, a selection of fine wines, champagnes and spirits are available, although Cola drinks have been banished and pipe smoking or using mobile telephones are strictly forbidden!”
Be consistent and offer value for money. Treat your clients well and they’ll treat you well and by loyal.
Keep innovating, but don’t lose sight of what makes you the money. Don’t follow new trends blindly and risk throwing the baby out with the bath water!
Finally, if you do find yourself in Zurich – visit the Brasserie. The view from the top floor over Zurich is spectacular.
Rashid.
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